8.24.2005

I foresee a full-fledged caffeine addiction

Monday evening, Like invited me over for coffee. The coffee ceremony takes many forms here, and all are time-consuming. I accepted, even though I knew I’d only be able to drink a spoonful or endure being awake until 3 AM. When I walked into her kitchen, there was a small brazier on the floor with ashen coals heating a tall, arching ceramic coffeepot.

Ethiopians often put incense in the coals and/or spices like cinnamon in with the roasting coffee to scent the smoke that fills the room as they roast the coffee beans in a small pan over the coals. Roasting completed, the beans are poured into a narrow wooden mortar, like a little butter churn, and pounded with a pestle until fine. Then I lost track of the process—something to do with boiling water and the ceramic coffeepot—but finally G. was pouring coffee with controlled grace into little handle-less cups, which merited praise from the onlookers, Like’s sister and brother-in-law. Popcorn is usually served alongside, sprinkled with sugar and salt. Serving coffee here calls for similar ritual & technique as serving sake in Japan. Once I locate one of those aluminum Italian stovetop coffeemakers, I’m afraid my morning ritual will be a crude estimation of this ceremony, but equally—if not more—appreciated.